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David K Smith
Chief Cook and Bottle Washer
Joined: 03 Sep 2008
Posts: 435
Location: New Jersey, USA
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DanMacK
Joined: 04 Sep 2008
Posts: 127
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
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 Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:09 am Post subject: |
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| Can't wait to see what else Robert comes out with. RDC's and doodlebugs seem to be a logical step forward for T gauge. Given the trucks are approximately a 6' wheelbase, how hard would it be to splice another set of wheels on to get a 3 axle truck for an E unit? |
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David K Smith
Chief Cook and Bottle Washer
Joined: 03 Sep 2008
Posts: 435
Location: New Jersey, USA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:28 am Post subject: |
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| DanMacK wrote: | | Given the trucks are approximately a 6' wheelbase, how hard would it be to splice another set of wheels on to get a 3 axle truck for an E unit? |
Probably impossible. The space between the two wheels is completely filled by a solid block of plastic, which holds the sideframes together.
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—David
http://www.t-gauge.net/
http://1-450.blogspot.com/ |
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DanMacK
Joined: 04 Sep 2008
Posts: 127
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 10:32 am Post subject: |
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| Hmmm, ot may be easier to add a dummy axle, possibly via styrene then (or just rig up a new sideframe via styrene with an idler or dummy axle) Bear in mind this is just from looking at the pictures and not having seen the actual product yet. I do believe there's be a way to do something like this though, just a matter of if it's functional or an illusion. |
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David K Smith
Chief Cook and Bottle Washer
Joined: 03 Sep 2008
Posts: 435
Location: New Jersey, USA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 11:04 am Post subject: |
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| DanMacK wrote: | | Hmmm, ot may be easier to add a dummy axle, possibly via styrene then (or just rig up a new sideframe via styrene with an idler or dummy axle) Bear in mind this is just from looking at the pictures and not having seen the actual product yet. I do believe there's be a way to do something like this though, just a matter of if it's functional or an illusion. |
I think a dummy third axle is definitely the way to go. Once you see the trucks, you'll see why.
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—David
http://www.t-gauge.net/
http://1-450.blogspot.com/ |
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pray59
Joined: 05 Sep 2008
Posts: 88
Location: Fremont, CA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 12:26 am Post subject: |
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Yes, I am dabbling in T. Here is the cars I done so far: a Lounge, Diner, Sleeper, and Coach:
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-Robert Ray |
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DanMacK
Joined: 04 Sep 2008
Posts: 127
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 2:49 am Post subject: |
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Nice detail shots Robert! Are we going to see a dome and an obs next? 
I'd also like to see an RDC or 2  |
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trainspotter-usa
Joined: 04 Sep 2008
Posts: 315
Location: Minnesota
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 4:05 am Post subject: |
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| DanMacK wrote: |
I'd also like to see an RDC or 2 |
It seems to me like a lot of people would like to see an RDC
Ian |
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learningtobelost
Joined: 07 Sep 2008
Posts: 11
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 10:15 am Post subject: |
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Very nice indeed.
Robert, I did read through your thread on Trainboard, but there's one thing I'm unclear on.
Did you somehow attach your new bodyshells over the top of the existng Eishindo ones or are they completely separate units? The reason I ask is because I was under the impression that the mechanism for the powered cars was acually part of the body shell, thus making creating new shells that much more tricky.
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Chris |
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David K Smith
Chief Cook and Bottle Washer
Joined: 03 Sep 2008
Posts: 435
Location: New Jersey, USA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 10:45 am Post subject: |
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| learningtobelost wrote: | Robert, I did read through your thread on Trainboard, but there's one thing I'm unclear on.
Did you somehow attach your new bodyshells over the top of the existng Eishindo ones or are they completely separate units? The reason I ask is because I was under the impression that the mechanism for the powered cars was acually part of the body shell, thus making creating new shells that much more tricky. |
T Gauge shells are solid clear styrene. Robert sanded the shell smooth, then polished it to get the clear styrene clear again for the windows of his new laser-cut shell, which just wraps over top of the old one.
The mechanism is sort of integrated with the shell; the shell holds the gearbox in place, and it also contains the power strips. It would not be difficult to remove the shell completely, assuming the modeler devised a way of holding the gearbox in position on the chassis, and also hardwired the electrical connections (which is what I plan to do... at some point).
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http://www.t-gauge.net/
http://1-450.blogspot.com/ |
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learningtobelost
Joined: 07 Sep 2008
Posts: 11
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 11:23 am Post subject: |
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Oh crikey, the idea of sanding and polishing those shells is rather terrifying as I've never tried anything of the sort with styrene!
I suppose I ought to have a crack at it, if it all goes wrong I've not lost anything as I was planning on making new body shells anyway.
Thanks for the speedy answer!
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Chris |
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michael
Joined: 05 Sep 2008
Posts: 47
Location: Cambridge, Ontario Canada
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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| David K Smith wrote: | T Gauge shells are solid clear styrene. Robert sanded the shell smooth, then polished it to get the clear styrene clear again for the windows of his new laser-cut shell, which just wraps over top of the old one.
The mechanism is sort of integrated with the shell; the shell holds the gearbox in place, and it also contains the power strips. It would not be difficult to remove the shell completely, assuming the modeler devised a way of holding the gearbox in position on the chassis, and also hardwired the electrical connections (which is what I plan to do... at some point). |
Thanks for clarifying this - seems that this may actually simplify the process of conversion. (a simplified as one might expect for this scale)
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Michael
www.tgauge.ca
www.modelrailroader.ca |
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pray59
Joined: 05 Sep 2008
Posts: 88
Location: Fremont, CA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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The sanding took all of 30 seconds per side, and on the roof. I used 220 grit to take everything flat, 400, then 600, about 10 seconds per side with each, then Novus 1 and 2 polish, 1 minute each.
The carsides were engraved out of .004" self adhesive acrylic sign plastic, then painted and decaled while on the sheet. The they were peeled and sticked on the cars.
Dan Stirpe came over a couple weeks ago, and we made 4 more body styles, all PRR Budd cars, but have yet to make decals.
Here is the video of them running:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fj_bpCC63_I
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-Robert Ray |
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